Check/RepairMake sure that the water supply faucets behind the washer are fully open. Check for frozen fill lines in the winter. Unplug the washer and disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer. Check for proper water flow through the fill hoses.
If water flow is inadequate, have a plumber repair the water supply to the faucets.If water flows okay, check the inlet screens on the water inlet valve assembly. If the screens are clogged, replace the water inlet valve assembly rather than cleaning the screens (cleaning could allow debris to enter the valves, resulting in the valves sticking open and causing flooding).Check the drain hose for proper installation. An improperly installed drain hose causes fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. Also, check the drain pump for debris because items such as paper clips and coins can prevent the washer from draining properly and allow fill water to siphon out through the washer drain.If these suggestions don't solve the problem, the inlet water valve assembly probably needs to be replaced. Check/RepairUnplug the washer and check the wire harness connections between the drive motor and the motor control board.
Reconnect any loose wires or replace the wire harness if damaged. Check the resistance through the tachometer on the drive motor using a multimeter. If you don't measure between 105 and 130 ohms, the tachometer is defective and you'll need to replace the drive motor.
The tachometer is built into the drive motor and can't be replaced separately. If tachometer resistance is okay, replace the motor control board.
Check/RepairUnplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, you'll usually need to replace the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed. If the motor pulley and drive pulley both spin freely, then you could have a bad motor windings or a defective motor control board.
Check/RepairUnplug the washer and remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley. If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor.
If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, you'll usually need to replace the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed. If the motor pulley and drive pulley both spin freely, then you could have a bad motor windings or a defective motor control board. Check/RepairUnplug the washer and check the resistance through the tachometer on the drive motor using a multimeter. If you don't measure between 105 and 130 ohms, replace the drive motor because the tachometer is defective. If the tachometer resistance is okay, remove the drive belt. Spin the motor pulley.
If it doesn't spin freely, replace the drive motor. If the motor spins freely, rotate the large drive pulley on the back of the washer tub to check the spin bearing. If the pulley doesn't spin freely, you'll usually need to replace the outer tub and spin basket because the spin bearing failed. If the motor pulley and drive pulley both spin freely, then you could have a bad motor windings or a defective motor control board. Check/RepairUnplug the washer and check the resistance through the water temperature sensor circuit using a multimeter. You should measure around 50,000 ohms at room temperature. If resistance is off, you'll need to replace the water inlet valve assembly because that assembly houses the water temperature sensor and the sensor isn't available as a separate component.
If you measure correct resistance through that circuit, replace the electronic control board because the control board isn't detecting the correct resistance.
All prices are in USD.